Tips for a Visit to Santiago, Chile

For years I had wanted to visit Chile—the southernmost country in the world. So when Going alerted me to a half-price fare to Santiago on Delta Airlines, I seized the opportunity. Visions of Patagonia, Easter Island, and the Atacama desert floated through my mind. But I soon realized that Chile is as tall as the continental United States is wide. It simply wasn’t feasible to see all these far-flung attractions in the 9 days I had available. So I decided to concentrate on the greater Santiago area and the southern island of Chiloé— the only place on earth where both Humboldt and Magellan penguins nest. In this article, though, I focus on tips for a visit to Santiago, Chile. Stay tuned for an upcoming post with everything you need to know for a trip to Chiloé.

Guided Walking Tour of Santiago, Chile

I decided to orient myself to the capital with a 3-hour, guided walking tour in English on the day of arrival. It began at Plaza de Armas in the historic city center (near Santiago’s oldest church) and finished in Barrio Lastarria. Barrio Lastarria is a popular neighborhood with street artisans, specialty shops, bars, and restaurants. Along the way, we saw some surprisingly interesting and diverse architecture. The guide also pointed out places of historical interest, including sites that played an important role during the military dictatorship from 1973-1990. It’s a great way to get your bearings and hit the guide up for tips for a visit to Santiago tailored to your unique interests. (See the upcoming article about about my separate, day-long tour of places linked to the dictatorship.)

Museum of Memory and Human Rights

Although the dictatorship ended in 1990, you can still sense its impact on Chilean society. Chileans are friendly and welcoming but generally seemed more reticent than their Latin American neighbors. I heard several people say it’s because there’s a persistent sense of sadness about the oppression, torture, disappearances, and deaths that characterized military rule. And that perception was corroborated by street murals in Santiago and surrounding areas depicting fear, surveillance, and similar themes— more than 30 years after the return of democracy.

To understand what happened, head to the Museum of Memory and Human Rights (Museo de Memoria y Derechos Humanos). Its multimedia exhibits educate visitors about the 1973 coup that ousted the democratically elected president, Salvador Allende, and installed General Augusto Pinochet as the de facto head of government. Kidnappings. Torture. Forced disappearances. Censorship. Cover-up. The museum lays it all out clearly, convincingly, and chillingly. Particularly moving is the enormous wall featuring the victims’ photos.

Entry is free, and the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 to 18:00. But signage in English is somewhat limited. So if Spanish isn’t your strong suit, visit the museum’s website to schedule a tour with an English-speaking guide.

Santiago’s Funicular

To get a sense of Santiago’s sprawling size, take the funicular from the Pio Nono base station to the last stop on San Cristobal Hill. You’ll find a plaza and restaurant with public restrooms there, alongside a small selection of souvenir and snack shops. Then ascend on foot (either by stairs or ramp) to the very top for a close-up look at the huge statue of the Virgin Mary, visible throughout the capital. Allow about 75-90 minutes for the entire visit, unless you want to linger at the zoo halfway up the hill. (The funicular stops there, too.)

The funicular runs daily except the first Monday of each month. It opens at 13:00 on the other Mondays, and at 10:00 Tuesday through Sunday. The last descent is always at 18:45. The roundtrip fare to the summit is about US $2.50. Click here for more details. Note the area surrounding the Pio Nono station has a wide variety of appealing restaurants.

Tip for a Visit to Santiago—The Best Souvenirs

Wherever you go in Chile, you’ll see the imagery and hear legends of the indigenous Mapuche people. And Mapuche culture is frequently represented in local art galleries and souvenir stands. But for the best, one-stop souvenir shopping, visit Los Domenicos Artisan Market (Centro Artesanal Barrio Pueblito Los Domenicos). You can buy high-quality textiles, metal work, leather goods, ceramics, jewelry, woodworking, paintings, and other goods— with and without indigenous elements— at reasonable prices from the artists who made them.

There are about 140 shops in all— feel free to linger, since food shops and restrooms are on-site. The market is located at Avenida Apoquindo 9085 in the Las Condes neighborhood and open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:30 to 19:00. Although several tour companies offer paid excursions to the market, I went there cheaply and easily on my own using Uber.

How Long to Spend in Santiago

I think 2-3 days in Santiago proper is enough. Honestly, there’s not that much to see or do in the city. Residents confirmed most tourists pass quickly through the capital en route to the more popular regions of Patagonia in the south and Atacama in the north, or Easter Island (a 5-hour flight from Santiago). So I ventured about 90 minutes outside the capital on a day-long, guided tour of Valparaiso, Viña Del Mar, and the Casas del Bosque vineyard.

Day Trip from Santiago to Valparaiso and Viña del Mar

I was underwhelmed by Viña Del Mar and think you can safely skip it. On the other hand, Valparaiso was an interesting place to explore on foot. It’s particularly well-known for its vibrant colors and street art, but it boasts several interesting shops and restaurants, too. (The tour spends a few hours here, including a lunch break.) Our guide shared lots of local insight, and it was fun to mingle with a small group of other tourists on the chauffeured, air-conditioned minibus.

On the way back to Santiago, the tour stopped at Casas del Bosque. It was my first visit to a vineyard— Chile is famous for them. And it was more interesting than I anticipated to learn about the various grapes and how a winery operates. Wine-tasting is included, and you have the option to ship your favorite varieties home if room in your luggage is scarce. All in all, it was a good way to spend the day and see other parts of Chile.

My longer side trip— to Chiloé for three nights— merits a post of its own. Watch for it in the coming weeks.

Where to Stay in Santiago

Santiago is divided into 26 neighborhoods. But Providencia, Las Condes, and Barrio Italia (with its high concentration of fantastic restaurants) are widely considered to offer the best combination of safety and convenience for visitors. I walked all three on my own, including after dark, and always felt comfortable. That said, exercise normal precautions for any large city. (Locals warn to be extra vigilant near the city center, especially after dark.)

I stayed several nights at the comfortable, quiet, and well-priced Hotel Tinka in Providencia. It was conveniently located half a block from a grocery store and metro stop, although I relied on Uber to get around safely, easily, and inexpensively. Note the “hotel” functions more like an Airbnb. But the staff is extremely attentive and helpful during business hours and highly responsive via WhatsApp after hours. (And be sure to use the telephone number provided when you book your reservation to coordinate the time of arrival with hotel staff. The security gate requires a key, so someone has to let you in the first time.)

Santiago—Final Thoughts

Remember that seasons below the equator are the opposite of seasons in the northern hemisphere. I visited Chile in February, at the peak of their summer. Although it was a bit on the warm side in Santiago, I felt it was an ideal time to be there. And English is widely spoken within the tourism industry, though less so elsewhere.

The flight from Atlanta to Santiago is about 10 hours non-stop, so it makes sense to see as much as you can once you’re in Chile. If I could start over, I’d extend the trip from 9 to 14 days and concentrate on seeing Patagonia, Easter Island, and the Atacama desert. That would require using Santiago as a hub for flights to all three points of interest. But I’m happy to make a second trip—Chile was an easy and affordable place to visit.

One final tip for a visit to Santiago or anywhere else in Chile—install WhatsApp on your phone before you arrive. Hotels, tour providers, and other businesses all use the free, reliable app to make calls and send texts.