I first wanted to see the San Blas islands after spotting photos of them on social media. And when I learned the remote archipelago was a backdrop for the popular Netflix series, Money Heist, I figured it was a sure bet. But I soon realized it’s a bit of a chore to get there. So given all the effort, I decided to reward myself with a 3-night sailing charter in San Blas. It wasn’t cheap, though, and until my arrival, one question nagged at me. Are the San Blas islands worth it? (Be sure to see the photo gallery at the bottom of this page.)
What Are the San Blas Islands?
The San Blas archipelago consists of 378 idyllic, mostly uninhabited islands off Panama’s Carribean coast. They belong to the indigenous Guna people and form part of the semi-autonomous region called Guna Yala. Read more about the Guna people and culture in my previous article.
The Guna people have strong cultural bonds to nature and refuse to allow commercial development in their pristine bit of paradise. So what you find here is unspoiled beauty, calm, and (for the most part) solitude.
Multiple Ways to See the San Blas Islands
Multiple tour companies offer various ways to see the San Blas islands. Day trips from Panama City abound but require a roughly 12-14 hour commitment. And 8 of those hours will be spent getting to and from the boat. I ruled that out almost immediately.
If you opt for an overnight stay, you can book very rustic accommodations on one of the few islands with basic facilities— or stay on a boat. Several businesses offer sailing charters in San Blas— either private or shared— lasting 1, 2, and 3 or more nights.
For shared charters, most of these companies act as brokers. They book cabins where and when available on whichever private vessels— crewed by a captain and chef— are in the area at the time of your visit. So each of the three passenger cabins on my charter was booked by a different company, but not all for the same dates, length of time, or price.
Blue Sailing Charters
After researching my options, I chose the highly rated Blue Sailing Charters to see the San Blas islands. They sell space on vessels sailing in either direction between Colombia and Panama, or solely within the San Blas archipelago. Within San Blas, you can choose a private charter, a shared budget charter, or a shared all-inclusive charter.
The shared budget charters follow a fixed itinerary, typically appeal to backpackers and, anecdotally, tend to be “party boats.” They run $525-600 per person for 3 nights. On the other hand, the shared all-inclusive charters— though more costly at $250-350 per person, per night— are low-key, offer better meals, and can customize a more secluded itinerary. Note the cabins generally sleep two people, so if you’re traveling solo you’ll likely have to pay for the empty berth, too.
Blue Sailing Charters – How to Book
The website for Blue Sailing Charters shows availability at least several months in advance. (I booked a February trip in September.) Photos, descriptions, and reviews of all the vessels for which they book space are posted online. Read the fine print— some boats allow pets or have only one bathroom. Others may have two hulls (for more stability). And the availability of kayaks, paddle boards, and other equipment varies. However, the boats are privately owned and crewed, so not all of the vessels are available year-round. Note, too, that a boat may change crews over the course of a year.
Blue Sailing Charters – Logistics
Once you’ve selected your preferred dates, submit an inquiry using the online booking form. The company is highly responsive to emails and will reply promptly (in fluent English) with the names of vessels available for your dates.
When you’re ready to confirm your dates and vessel, email a copy of each passenger’s passport to the company. They’ll send back a PayPal request for the 10% deposit. That’s all it takes to hold your space until one week before departure, when a wire transfer is due for the remaining balance.
Alternatively, you can bring cash and pay the captain upon arrival. There are no ATMs in San Blas, though, so you’ll have to safeguard the funds en route from Panama City.
The Long Road to San Blas
On the day of departure, a 4×4 vehicle picks you up at your hotel in Panama City between 05:00-06:00. There’s room for one passenger up front, three in the middle, and 2-3 people in the rear. Bring only what you can fit in one small bag. And be prepared for a roughly 3-hour drive with seemingly endless hills, twists, and turns.
The entire length of the road was safe and in very good condition, despite online reports to the contrary. And I had seen the warnings about potential motion sickness, so I ate light, took Dramamine, and sat in the front seat. Still, I got sick three times. Other cars pulled to the side of the road, too. But the driver was unfazed— his abundant supply of plastic bags proved he was used to it. Again, that nagging question… are the San Blas islands worth it?
The road trip costs $60 each way and is not included in the price of the charter. I had tried to book a $99 commuter flight from Panama City to San Blas, but FlySanBlas— the airline company recommended by Blue Sailing Charters— didn’t update its website schedule for many months and was unresponsive to multiple phone calls, texts, and emails.
Arrival in San Blas
After about three hours, we mercifully reached the shore. (There was one stop along the way, about an hour outside Panama City, at a large convenience store. It’s your last chance to buy anything, as there are no shops on the islands. Note, too, that you have to present your passport and pay a $20 tax in cash when you pass into Guna territory.)
At the shore, you’ll board a 12-passenger, fiberglass launch that ferries visitors to their assigned sailing vessels. Expect a very choppy ride for about 45-60 minutes. Use the plastic tarps under the seats to shield yourself from the spray. Again, I wondered… are the San Blas islands worth it?
The Guna people operate the launches and unobtrusively run dinghies between the larger boats, delivering provisions, removing trash, and occasionally selling the traditional, handmade molas. Tourism is the community’s primary means of survival. Only 49 of the islands are inhabited, but if you happen to set foot on one where a member of the Guna community has built a hut, you’ll be charged a $2 tax.
Sopite Syndrome
When the launch finally deposited me at my charter boat, the Swala, I was knackered from the 4-hour trek. And although I was no longer nauseous, the total exhaustion— accompanied by an absolute lack of appetite— persisted for 48 hours. I had never felt like that before and started to worry. But an online search suggested I was suffering from sopite syndrome— a reaction to prolonged motion sickness. It certainly wasn’t how I wanted to start my sailing charter in San Blas.
What to Expect On Board
The captain, Ayelén, and chef, Gastón, were very welcoming, accommodating, and attentive, though. They hosted five passengers on my first night, and just three of us for the remaining two nights. (If your cabin is the only one booked for a particular stretch of time, then the charter proceeds as a private one— for no additional cost!)
Gastón was a talented cook and catered to everyone’s dietary preferences for three meals a day. The group raved about the ceviche, octopus, and full range of other dishes he prepared. Meanwhile, I was grateful for the assortment of fresh fruit he repeatedly arranged for me, since nothing else— even my favorite foods— appealed to me.
Ayelén made it a point to visit several different islands by day and anchor in tranquil waters at night. The boat had snorkeling equipment, kayaks, and an SUP for fun in the water. And although I summoned the energy to test the water and explore a couple of the islands, I was equally content to lie on the bow’s trampoline and read. The ocean breeze and sound of the waves washing ashore were blissful in the 80-degree weather.
Amenities Aboard the Swala
The boat had two small bathrooms— each with just a sink and toilet. An outdoor, hand-held saltwater shower was at the stern. To my surprise, we had internet service via Starlink, and wall chargers in each cabin. And the cooler was always well stocked with ice and drinks.
Although we were advised to bring bug spray, none of us encountered any insects.
You do need to bring your own towel, but otherwise pack light— there’s limited space for cargo in the 4×4 vehicle and on the launch. And you really don’t need much.
An Alternative to Road Transport
Because we had Internet access, I emailed Blue Sailing Charters from the boat in hopes of avoiding an unpleasant road trip back to Panama City. Rengin— the company’s primary point of contact and an exceptionally helpful woman— found me a seat on an empty charter flight that was returning to the capital on the day my trip ended.
Ayelén and Gastón delivered me on a dinghy to the tiny Corazón de Jesús airstrip (CZJ) on the mainland shore. There, I paid another Guna tax plus $100 in cash for the flight. No security or tower— just two pilots and an empty commuter plane operated by AeroRental. I was thrilled. And 37 minutes later, I was back in the heart of Panama City— feeling great. En route, I enjoyed aerial views of the islands, the countryside, the Panama Canal, and the capital.
Cheap seats on the charter flights are offered on a space-available basis. The only way to guarantee yourself a flight is to book a private charter— which can easily run $1,000+ roundtrip.
Get Trip Insurance for Sailing Charters in San Blas
Given the 3-hour drive between Panama City and San Blas— plus the time needed to sail back to shore— consider whether you have any medical conditions that could present problems. Given the isolation and cost of a sailing charter in San Blas, travel insurance with medical evacuation is a wise investment.
So, Are the San Blas Islands Worth It?
My answer is a qualified yes— if you can stomach the 4-hour journey each way to/from the boat or, preferably, book commuter flights. There are equally beautiful, palm-fringed islands with white sand and turquoise water that are much easier to reach from the United States. But the San Blas islands are unique for two reasons— they’re administered exclusively by indigenous people and free of commercial development. No hotels, restaurants, casinos, shops, cruise ports, or crowds. Just you and your companions on a boat in gorgeous surroundings. And there’s something to be said for that.
