I’ve just returned from a week-long visit to Panama. When I planned the trip a year ago, this tiny Central American nation seemed like a genuinely under-the-radar destination. But with all the recent media scrutiny, Panama is now at the forefront of people’s minds. So it seems like the perfect time to share some interesting facts about the Panama Canal and help make sense of the recent fuss. I also include tips on how to plan a visit to the Panama Canal, either on your own or with a guide. (And watch for upcoming articles about Panama’s indigenous Guna people and my sailing charter to the San Blas Islands.)
A Guided Visit to the Panama Canal
My main reason for going to Panama was to sail the San Blas islands. I definitely wanted to see the canal, too— but I had just two full days in Panama City. Since I needed to make the most of my time, I booked a guided half-day tour of the capital that included a leisurely stop at the canal’s Miraflores Visitor Center. (Other notable stops included the Amador Causeway and a guided walk through the highly popular Old Town, or Casco Antiguo.)
I chose this particular tour because they picked me up at my hotel and timed the itinerary to arrive at the canal precisely when a ship was passing through—no wasted time. And if requested, the company purchases the entry ticket for you in advance so you can skip the line and head straight to the observation deck upon arrival. That’s helpful because it gets crowded—even first thing in the morning.
Manage Your Expectations
To be honest, things move very slowly through the canal. And the locks looked smaller than I expected. Don’t get me wrong—the operation of the locks, the water management, and the ship movements are all technologically impressive. And I was very lucky to see a car carrier, a cruise ship, and a container ship pass through the locks. But even then, the whole operation is rather… low-key.
Originally, I considered a tour that actually takes you through the locks on a boat. I’m glad I didn’t book it, though, because I think it would have been somewhat underwhelming for the amount of time required.
The Must-See IMAX Movie About the Panama Canal
For me, the excitement was inside the visitor center at the IMAX theater! That’s where Morgan Freeman narrates a 45-minute, 3-D IMAX movie about the famous waterway’s history and engineering. And it’s chock full of interesting facts about the Panama Canal— I share just a few of them below.
The film was fascinating and gave me a far better understanding of—and appreciation for—the canal’s construction and significance. It’s included in the price of your ticket, and I think it’s an indispensable part of the visit. Don’t skip it!
The movie is shown almost hourly; click here for the schedule. And yes, there are drinks, snacks, and souvenirs for sale in the theater lobby.
Plan a Visit to the Panama Canal – On Your Own
Visitors to Panama City can save money and easily access the Miraflores Visitor Center—at the canal’s eastern end—without a guide. Uber is abundant, reliable and inexpensive here. If you visit the canal on your own, though, avoid long ticket lines and purchase your entry online in advance. And be sure to check the canal schedule so your visit coincides with a passing ship. (There can be long stretches without one.)
Miraflores Visitor Center – Hours and Tickets
Although the canal operates 24 hours a day, the visitor center is open daily only from 08:00 to 18:00. Note the ticket office closes at 17:00. There’s a two-story observation platform (wheelchair accessible only at the ground level) with live bilingual narration to explain what you’re seeing. Both decks are shaded from the sun, which can be intense.
Tickets for non-residents are $7.22 for children aged 6-12, and $17.22 for persons aged 13+. For more information and to purchase your tickets online, click here. If you want to splurge, the Miraflores Visitor Center offers a guided tour to otherwise restricted areas of the canal for an additional $200 per person.
Remember to check here for a real-time schedule and map of ships passing through the Miraflores Locks!
Interesting Facts About the Panama Canal
Whether you plan a visit to the Panama Canal on your own or hire a guide, the experience will be far more rewarding if you first understand a bit about the canal’s significance, history, and operations.
Why the Panama Canal Was Built
Ever since the Spanish explorer Balboa discovered Panama in 1513, nations have wanted to cut a canal through Panama. That’s because the narrowest strip of land separating the Pacific and Atlantic oceans is located here. Without the canal, ships would have to sail an extra 8,000 miles and two weeks (in modern times) around the southern tip of South America to get from one ocean to the other.
The Spaniards in 1534 concluded a canal was impossible because of difficult terrain. The French tried to dig one starting in 1881 but abandoned the unfinished project 10 years later. More than 22,000 workers died in the process, mostly from yellow fever and malaria.
Medical Advances Associated with the Panama Canal
Physicians Walter Reed, Carlos Finlay, and Henry Rose Carter in the early 1900s confirmed mosquitos were to blame for the transmission of yellow fever. Dr. Ronald Ross linked the pesky insects to to the spread of malaria. Once the culprit was identified, US Army surgeon William Gorgas eventually led efforts to eradicate mosquitos in the Canal Zone and allow construction of the waterway—this time led by the United States—to resume in 1904.
How the Canal Earned Panama Its Independence
But first, the US needed permission to build. Originally, Panama was part of the Spanish empire for more than 300 years. In 1821, it declared independence from Spain and joined other former colonies to create what was then known as Gran Colombia. Panama remained a province of modern Colombia until 1903.
That’s when the United States fomented a revolution. The US had wanted a canal in Panama since the mid-1800s, to facilitate shipping and military transit. After the French construction project failed, the US hoped to give it a try. But Colombia said no. So the US offered to support Panama’s bid to secede from Colombia in exchange for the right to construct the waterway.
In November 1903, Panama declared its independence, and US warships prevented Colombian forces from quelling the rebellion. Two weeks later, the newly independent nation signed a treaty granting the US perpetual rights to construct, administer, and defend the canal in a 10-mile wide “canal zone.”
American Construction of the Canal
The US began construction of the canal in 1904 and finished it 10 years later. The terrain was challenging—workers had to contend with dense jungle, heavy rain and flooding, landslides, and tropical disease. All told, nearly 300 million cubic tons of earth and rock were excavated and relocated. Some of it was used to build the Amador Causeway mentioned above. More than 5,600 additional men died during the US phase of construction before the waterway finally opened in 1914. But that figure marks a 75% drop in mortality thanks to the new mosquito mitigation efforts that became a model for public health in other parts of the world.
The US Returned the Canal to Panama
The original treaty remained in effect until 1977, when Panama and the US signed a new agreement. Under the new treaty, the two countries operated the canal jointly until Panama assumed full control in 1999. But notably, the new treaty affirmed the right of the US to use military force to defend the waterway against any threat to its neutrality. (Panama’s military was abolished by constitutional amendment in 1994.)
Ships are Built to Fit the Panama Canal
People tend to think of the “canal” as just the series of locks through which ships pass. But technically, it’s a 50-mile waterway that winds through channels, man-made lakes, and a series of locks from one ocean to the other.
In order to navigate the passage, ships must meet length, width, and depth restrictions and be able to pass beneath bridges along the route. The same requirements have been in effect since the canal opened in 1914. Collectively, the size limitations are known as the “Panamax” specifications, and ships are custom-built to meet them.
Panama Canal Expansion Project
Modern cargo ships, in particular, are considerably larger than their older counterparts. So in 2016, an additional set of locks opened to accommodate them. The “New Panamax” specifications embrace ships up to 180 feet wide and 1,400 feet long, as opposed to the original limits of 110 x 1,000 feet. The larger ships can carry three times the cargo of smaller ones.
But the new locks still retain a unique feature of the original locks—they all rely exclusively on gravity, not pumps, to raise and lower the water level.
Only Panamanians Can Pilot Ships Through the Canal
Since many ships are custom-built to fit the canal and maximize cargo, there may be mere inches between the hull and the canal walls. Several specially designed locomotives, or “mules,” run on tracks alongside the locks and use cables to keep each ship properly aligned. The waterway’s narrow channels and tides pose additional challenges.
Consequently, every ship that traverses the canal must have a highly trained Panama Canal Pilot on board. The ship’s captain relinquishes command of the vessel to the Panamanian pilot throughout the period of transit.
Panama Canal Traffic
All told, it takes about 8-10 hours to complete the 50-mile journey. Approximately 35-40 vessels, from pleasure craft to car carriers, complete the passage each day. That translates to 13,000-14,000 ships—and $2 billion in tolls—per year. Tolls are determined by weight.
And which countries send the most ships through the canal? The US and China.
Final Thoughts
The Panama Canal is a fascinating feat of engineering and essential for the efficient transit of commercial and military vessels. Whether you plan a visit to the Panama Canal on your own or choose a guided tour, it’s certainly worth seeing. And armed with these interesting facts about the Panama Canal, you’ll be well prepared to appreciate the history, construction, and operational complexity of the waterway.
Visiting Panama? Check out its neighbor Costa Rica, too—and one of the world’s most diverse wildlife areas.
2 Responses
Well done Dave! I’ve Been to Panama twice and visited the canal on one of those visits. Truly worth seeing and understanding how it works. I wasn’t aware Panama has no military! I guess they’ll rely on us.
Thanks, John! It will be interesting to see how things play out.