I associate early July with three things— Independence Day in the USA, the Wimbledon tennis championship in England, and the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, Spain. The Running of the Bulls (or encierro in Spanish) is hardly “under-the-radar”. But most casual observers know very little about the traditions and larger festival that surround it. So I’ve penned this beginner’s guide to the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona. My goal is to give readers— as well as runners and spectators— a more complete understanding of this fascinating and thrilling 9-day event. (And be sure to see my photo gallery at the bottom of the page.)
The Festival of San Fermín
The centuries-old Festival of San Fermín (or more simply Sanfermín) is held annually from July 6-14 in honor of Pamplona’s patron saint. Today, it’s a mix of religious processions, parades, concerts, open-air dances, fireworks, partying and— as with most Spanish festivals— bullfights. Historically, the bulls were run through the streets from a corral outside town simply to reach the bullring. Over time, the practice evolved into the daredevil encierros we see today.
Hemingway and the Running of the Bulls
Sanfermín remained a largely local affair until 1926, when Ernest Hemingway wrote about it in The Sun Also Rises. (You can still visit Café Iruña, where the novel’s main characters meet and Hemingway himself hung out.) Today, over one million people from across the globe attend the Festival of San Fermín annually. But only about 2,000 runners (called mozos in Spanish) participate in each encierro. Everyone else? They’re happy to watch the thrill seekers and partake in the non-stop, high-energy celebrations.
The Chupinazo at the Running of the Bulls
The festival’s opening ceremony starts at noon on July 6 with the firing of a rocket from the balcony of city hall. In the square below, revelers dressed in white wait shoulder-to-shoulder for the signal, called the chupinazo. Throughout town, people raise their traditional red kerchiefs above their heads and— at the sound of the rocket— tie them around their necks to start the fiesta.
Popular Activities During the Festival San Fermín
At 10:00 the next day, a solemn procession leaves the Church of San Lorenzo and winds through the streets of Pamplona to honor San Fermín. Festival-goers pack the route to see an image of the saint.
But there’s a daily “parade of the giants and bigheads” (gigantes and cabezudos in Spanish). It starts at the bus station at 09:30 each morning from July 7-14. The huge, mischievous paper mâché sculptures dance through the streets accompanied by local bands. But check local sources for the precise route— it changes every day.
The family atmosphere continues into the evening with an international fireworks competition. Fireworks have been a feature of the Festival of San Fermín since the 16th century. Now, contestants battle every night at 23:00 to be named the best show.
Guide to the Running of the Bulls
But the festival’s main draw is the daily running of the bulls from July 7-14. (There is no run on opening day, July 6.) At 08:00, a rocket signals the release of six fighting bulls and six steers. They charge from their corral into town, where mozos pack the streets and vie for their preferred positions. For experienced runners, the goal is to get as close to a bull as possible— ideally at the tip of his horns— to demonstrate their prowess and bravery.
A bull that separates from the herd— called a suelto— will feel threatened and become especially dangerous. So the steers help keep the herd together and lead the bulls forward. (Many novice runners mistake the docile, castrated steers for bulls!) Each day features a different breed of fighting bull from one of Spain’s famed ranches.
Running of the Bulls – The Route
The run is half a mile long— through narrow, winding, cobblestone streets— and finishes at the bullring. Runners pick any spot along the route. Which section is the “best”? Each mozo has his or her own opinion. But click here for a map of the encierro and choose the stretch that suits you.
Just stay alert, because it all ends quickly— usually in about three to five minutes. Once the group reaches the bullring, another rocket is fired. Then a few moments of pandemonium ensue as bulls and runners empty into the ring together. At that point, the bulls are ushered into their pens, and the run is over. The entire event is broadcast on live television.
Safety Measures during San Fermín
So what does a first-time runner need to know? Watch the video below for advice from a friend of mine, Dennis Clancey, who coaches new mozos. Dennis is a well-known veteran of Sanfermín with countless runs to his credit. I can’t think of a better voice to include in this guide to the Running of the Bulls.
It may reassure you to know the local police actively and strictly monitor participants. Cameras, phones, and backpacks are not allowed. Anyone who appears to be under the influence of drugs or alcohol will be ejected. And if you in any way harass a bull during the run, you’ll be fined. Violating the rules risks injury to yourself and other runners— it’s unwise to break protocol and risk retribution later. Click here for a complete set of regulations.
Casualties at the Running of the Bulls
Officials also provide safety instructions in several languages before each run. If anything goes wrong— as it often does— medical teams are posted along the entire route. Annually, hundreds of runners sustain injuries. And 16 participants lost their lives since record keeping began in 1910.
A Fun Fact— and Warning— About Running with the Bulls
Bulls are color blind. They don’t see red. But they do follow movement. So if you fall during a run, cover your head with your hands and stay absolutely still. The bulls will most likely jump over you, or at worst step on you as they charge forward. Just don’t move until an official tells you it’s safe.
Balconies for the Running of the Bulls
As tempted as I was to experience the run firsthand, I opted for the safety of a second-story balcony near one of the dangerous turns— popularly known as Dead Man’s Curve, or la curva. Throughout the Festival of San Fermín, residents whose homes overlook the route invite spectators to observe the runs— for a fee— from their balconies. I watched encierros from both sides of Calle de Mercaderes and had a ball.
The Balcony Experience
Expect to share the space with as many people as can comfortably stand on the balcony. And follow precisely the instructions you receive once you reserve your spot. Access to buildings along the route is strictly controlled. Leave yourself plenty of time to negotiate the crowd and arrive on time. Although your host may offer light refreshments, you’re there to watch the run— don’t expect to linger afterwards.
But be sure to book well in advance— a year ahead is not unreasonable! You can reserve space here. I recommend a lower-level balcony to be closer to the action.
Watching San Fermín at Street Level
But if a balcony is beyond your budget, you can watch at street level from behind the wooden barriers that enclose the bulls and runners. Still, it can be quite crowded and difficult to maneuver here. And you’ll need to arrive very early to get a decent spot. To be honest, I think there’s a good chance you’ll be disappointed with your viewing options from the barricades.
San Fermín – The Bullfights
Many people are surprised to learn the bulls they watched in the morning are the same ones to appear in the bullfights (corridas) that night. The corridas — with three matadors and six bulls— take place daily at 18:00 from July 7-14. You can obtain tickets from a local agency here. Again, plan well in advance. Note that a corrida is a traditional bullfight. A rejoneo is a bullfight on horseback, and a novillada involves novice bullfighters with young bulls. Be sure you’re buying tickets for the type of event you wish to see. And note that the bulls almost always die.
Best Days to Visit San Fermín
Opening day fell on a weekend when I attended the Festival of San Fermín. That made for an extra raucous affair. Normally, crowds that large aren’t my thing— especially drunken ones. But the people-watching from my perch on the balcony on opening day was unrivaled. The chupinazo, donning of the kerchiefs, and crowd surfing were great entertainment. And my fellow spectators and I had hours of fun tossing buckets of cold water onto the grateful, overheated crowd below.
So I recommend timing your visit to include opening day and at least a couple more days to experience all the key elements of Sanfermín. That said, mid-festival is likely to be less crowded, except on a weekend. Attendance swells again in the closing days but likely won’t match the start of the festival.
Book a Room Early; Skip the Car
Accommodations in and around Pamplona range from campgrounds to hostels to luxury hotels. I even saw people sleeping in tents in the park. Just be sure to book your accommodations well in advance. Click the Trivago logo at right to get started.
But it would be pointless— even a hassle— to rent a car for Pamplona. Everywhere you want to go is easily walkable. The city itself is well connected by bus and train to the rest of Spain.
Controversy
With this beginner’s guide to the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona, I wanted to help interested readers learn more about the Festival of San Fermín and share helpful tips for anyone planning a visit. I think Sanfermín is an obvious choice for a blog about unique travel experiences.
That said, bullfighting is increasingly controversial. Even Spaniards are deeply divided over the practice, which has been an integral part of Spanish culture for centuries. It’s now common to see protests against animal cruelty outside bullrings. And some jurisdictions have banned bullfights altogether. But proponents of bullfighting feel just as strongly about preserving the tradition. The debate continues and won’t be settled here— I feel it’s best to let each reader make up his/her own mind.
Final Thoughts
It’s hard to capture in words the atmosphere at Sanfermín. The festival is truly international in scope— I doubt you’ll find more than a handful of nationalities without representation. And it draws people of all ages. The shared energy, excitement, thrills, and camaraderie are palpable. I especially liked the pervasive sense of goodwill— friendships form instantly and effortlessly. I’ve never experienced anything like it elsewhere, and I know I’ll return. Maybe next time I’ll run?!
Learn more about the Festival of San Fermín at the official website.
