A travel blog rarely combines murder, sex, fabulous wealth, and human tragedy in a single article. But these themes are par for the course in the ancient Italian city of Pompeii. When Mount Vesuvius buried the once-bustling metropolis— 14 miles from Naples— in volcanic debris in 79 AD, it created a time capsule of unparalleled intrigue. Centuries of excavation have exposed tantalizing details of Pompeiian life— secrets of Pompeii that otherwise would have been lost to antiquity. Just last month, archeologists unveiled a remarkably elaborate banquet hall in Pompeii, nearly 2,000 years after it was entombed by the volcano.
Yet one-third of the city remains encased in 13 to 20 feet of pumice stone and ash. More secrets of Pompeii are sure to emerge. But here I highlight some of the most interesting and most recent secrets of Pompeii to be exposed— ones that elude many visitors. (Be sure to see the photo gallery at the end of the article.)
Pompeii – A Wealthy City
Pompeii was a major trade center for the Roman Empire and consequently a wealthy place. Like Rome, it had a forum, baths, and an amphitheater with gladiatorial games— even an Egyptian temple dedicated to Isis. The city’s affluence is also evident in the many elaborate villas decorated with intricate mosaics and colorful frescoes.
The recently unveiled banquet hall is a prime example. It’s located in a private home and measures 50×20 feet. The floor consists of one million mosaic tile pieces, and scenes from Greek mythology adorn the walls. Like so much of Pompeii, the room is in surprisingly good condition. (Despite their destructive power, volcanoes can be amazing conservators.) I had to keep reminding myself that everything I saw in Pompeii was frozen in time two millennia ago.
Pompeii’s Link to the Assassination of Julius Caesar
The House of the Theatrical Squares in Pompeii helps to illustrate the point. Enter the home’s atrium and you’ll find a lion-headed, marble tripod once used to support a table. A wealthy Pompeiian purchased the table at auction because of its unusual pedigree. Look closely, and you’ll see the original owner’s name etched on the pedestals in shortened form— Publius Servilius Casca Longus, or P. Casca Log. He is better known as the first Senator to stab Julius Caesar when the Roman dictator was assassinated on March 15th in 44 BC. When Mount Vesuvius preserved Casca Longus’ table for posterity, Caesar’s murder was recent history.
Pompeii’s Prison-Bakery and House Under Construction
Over the past several months, archeologists unearthed more secrets of Pompeiian life. In late 2023, researchers announced the discovery of a bakery where slaves and donkeys were imprisoned together to grind grain and bake bread. Bread was a popular commodity in Pompeii and often used by politicians to curry favor and votes. In fact, preserved loaves of bread— some with the baker’s imprint— were excavated at Pompeii, along with fruit, nuts, and even eggs.
And in March, scholars unveiled an ancient construction site frozen in time. By studying the supplies and tools there, researchers discovered the Pompeiians used a special blend of quicklime, sand, and water to create a type of “hot cement”. It dried quicker than other mixtures— and clearly withstood the test of time.
Ancient Fast-Food Restaurants in Pompeii
Thermopolia— the ancient equivalent of fast-food counters— have been uncovered throughout the city. But in 2020, archeologists found an especially large and well-preserved one. Its earthenware pots still contained remnants of ducks, pigs, chicken, goats, and fish stew! Paintings on the side of the stone counter served as an illustrated menu.
Only wealthy families had kitchens, and roughly half the middle-class homes lacked cooking hearths. So working class Pompeiians ate— very well, we now know— at the thermopolia.
Walking in the Footsteps of Ancient Pompeiians
As you explore the streets and buildings of Pompeii today, you literally walk in the footsteps of the city’s ill-fated residents. Notice the raised sidewalks made of lava stone, and the large blocks— the ancient equivalent of a crosswalk— placed in the middle of the road at regular intervals. They allowed pedestrians to move about town without stepping in the waste and filth that covered the roads.
The crossing blocks were precisely sized and placed to allow wagons and carts— pulled by mules and oxen— to pass over them. Ancient traffic was so heavy the wheels left ruts in the paving stones. Incidentally, Pompeiians didn’t know the rock was volcanic— they thought Vesuvius was just an ordinary mountain. At the time, there wasn’t even a word for volcano in Latin.
Sex (and Art) in Pompeii
As you stroll about town, you’re sure to notice many phallic symbols. Although I don’t deny the sexual proclivities of ancient Romans, the symbols were intended to bring good luck. Maybe the town didn’t display enough of them?
However, brothels were a common, accepted part of daily Pompeiian life and a reflection of the city’s affluence. These houses of not-so-ill-repute also used elaborate paintings as a sort of illustrated menu. (Use your imagination.) Even the sexually explicit graffiti found throughout Pompeii incorporated sophisticated drawings to cleverly insult one’s neighbor or political rival. And if you studied Latin, you’ll surely chuckle at some of the colorful diatribes scrawled on walls around town.
Pompeii – The Body Casts
About 15,000 people lived in Pompeii at the time of the eruption. But “only” 2,000 died there— killed by toxic gases, falling boulders, or intense heat. Their remains disintegrated and over time left voids in the fallen ash and stone. When filled with plaster or resin, these empty spaces produced casts of the deceased— 1,000 to date— that provide eerie glimpses of how people perished. Some were crawling. Others crouched with hands over their faces. Parents and children huddled together.
The explosion killed animals, too. Among the remains were three horses— two with reins in place and one wearing a saddle. Excavations in 2021 also revealed something never before found in Italy— a nearly intact, red and black ceremonial chariot.
Controversy at Pompeii
Every year, more secrets of Pompeii are revealed and teach us about a lost way of life. But these revelations are products of past excavations. In 1960, Italy halted major new digs due to concern about potential damage to the site. For example, exposed areas are now subject to erosion from the weather. And escarpments left from prior excavation must be reinforced to prevent collapse.
Some scholars argue the knowledge gained from past exploration justifies the risk. But opponents argue further excavation is better left to future generations. They presume new technology, as yet unimagined, will expose the remaining secrets of Pompeii with less harm to the ancient city.
Pompeii – Tips for Visitors
You can learn more secrets of Pompeii and plan your visit at the official website.
The train ride from Rome to Pompeii is a little over 2 hours, with a couple dozen choices throughout the day. A day trip is certainly possible. But there’s a lot more to see in that part of Italy, and you’ll likely want to linger in the area for days.
I’ve toured Pompeii with and without a guide and believe a guide is indispensable. A casual, untrained eye misses too much. Your visit will be enriched by someone who can point out the hidden gems, cater to your interests, and answer the inevitable questions.
Hire a Guide for Pompeii
You can hire a licensed, freelance guide at the entrance to the site, but you have to negotiate the price directly with the person you choose. (Admission is 19 Euros per person, plus the guide’s fee.)
Instead, I used Mondo Guide’s shared tour signup ahead of time to place my name on a list for the date of my visit. Once the required minimum of 6 people signed up, the 2-hour tour was confirmed via email. The group maximum is 16, and up to three tours are offered per day in English, all starting at 11:00. Although a credit card is required to guarantee a reservation, it will only be used for no-shows. Otherwise, you pay 20 Euros per person in cash at the start of the tour.
Our Mondo guide was fantastic and really brought the city to life. Note that the signup page is titled “Shared Tours Mondo Guide for Rick Steves”. For those unfamiliar, Rick Steves is a popular writer of guidebooks for travelers, and he partnered with Mondo Guide to make private, guided tours in Italy more affordable for casual travelers. But anyone can sign up.
Final Thoughts
Depending on the source, Pompeii is either Italy’s second or third most-visited attraction— with good reason. It’s a captivating place with nearly universal appeal. And while you’re in this part of Italy, give serious consideration to the island of Capri and the Amalfi Coast, in that order. You’ll thank me later.
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