Córdoba is a quintessentially Spanish town and one of my favorites. The ancient, narrow, and hilly streets wind past whitewashed buildings. The architecture bears Roman, Moorish, and Christian influences. Flamenco music wafts from the squares. And if you visit Córdoba in May, the incomparable smell of orange blossoms fills the air, too. But May also boasts three celebrations unique to Córdoba, including the colorful Festival of the Patios, or Fiesta de los Patios.
And if that’s not reason enough to visit Córdoba in May, consider this. The town is literally the hottest in Spain, with temperatures hovering near 100F in July and August. But in May, the average high is a dry 80F — perfect!
Historical Features
Before I get to the festivals, I have to acknowledge two of Córdoba’s architectural standouts. The Romans, who founded Córdoba, built the town’s bridge across the Guadalquivir River in the first century BC!
And the celebrated La Mezquita— now Córdoba’s Roman Catholic cathedral— was once a mosque. Its Moorish origins are plainly evident the moment you enter the building— and in my photos below. Thank the town’s former Muslim rulers, too, for the patio de los naranjos adjacent to the cathedral. Arab traders brought the orange trees here from China.
The May Crosses, or Las Cruces de Mayo
While the bridge and La Mezquita are impressive year-round, I recommend a springtime visit when the ferias occur. Córdoba’s inaugural May festival takes place over a period of several days during the first week of the month. That’s when residents and businesses erect crosses decorated with flowers throughout the town.
The displays often include special lighting and other colorful decorations. Las cruces de Mayo evolved from an old religious rite that survives today accompanied by evening dances and musical performances. The celebration’s exact dates vary each year, so consult the regional tourism website prior to a visit.
Córdoba Fair, or Féria de Córdoba
The centuries-old Córdoba Fair takes place at the end of May. Again, check the tourism website for the precise timing. It, too, has religious origins. There are carnival rides and games and large tents for dancing. Tapas and Spanish wine abound. And to add to the ambience, you’ll hear plenty of traditional music and see folks in regional Spanish attire.
The Festival of the Patios, or Fiesta de los Patios
But Córdoba is arguably best known for its Fiesta de los Patios that takes place over a roughly two-week period in early to mid-May. (The next one is scheduled for May 6-19, 2024.) During the festival, about 50 private residences throw open their gates and invite the public to visit their traditional inner courtyards. And the patios are festooned with flowers of every imaginable kind.
Residents of Córdoba have long relied on a central patio filled with water features and plants to cool the surrounding house. These private patios often were elaborately decorated— but obscured from public view. So in 1918, the town initiated the Festival of the Patios to give people a glimpse of these beautiful gardens.
Top Prizes
Today, large cash prizes for the best courtyards incentivize participation in the Festival of the Patios. The first-place contestant wins 3,000 Euros, while second and third place earns €2,500 and €2,000 respectively. But pride plays a role, too— there’s a surprising level of competition for the annual bragging rights. And homeowners post on the wall the number of prizes won over the years.
Serious Business
Residents invest tremendous time, energy, and money to earn the top honor. And I have to admit, the patios are impressive. But there’s more to winning than just a lot of pretty flowers. Although contestants are judged on flower variety and care, points are awarded for reliance on natural lighting and the creative use of water, too. Judges even take into account incorporation of the home’s architectural elements.
Homes are classified as either modern or “antique”, and the two categories are judged separately. And when they say antique, they really mean it— I spotted a wall plaque that identified an expansive jasmine vine as a family heirloom several hundred years old!
Finding Your Way
There is no charge to visit the patios, and reservations are not required. All the contestants agree to open their courtyards daily from 11:00-14:00 and again from 18:00-22:00. The only exception is the final day, when the festival concludes at 20:30. You’re free to enter as many of the participating patios as you like during those times.
Pick up a map of the contestants’ homes at the Tourist Office or use this interactive map. Or do as I did and book a guided walking tour for a small fee. (I figured I’d learn a lot more that way— and I was right!)
Getting to Córdoba
Visitors— both Spanish and otherwise— flock to Córdoba in May, so it’s best to book ahead if you want to stay the night. I opted instead for a long but very satisfying day trip from Madrid. One full day allowed me plenty of time to visit La Mezquita, leisurely explore the old town, buy gifts, tour the patios, and walk across the bridge at sunset. But I wouldn’t begrudge anyone an extra day or two.
The journey by train is only 2 hours from Madrid and 45 minutes from Sevilla. The Spanish rail system, Renfe, is top notch. You can easily plan your trip and purchase your train tickets online in English at their website. For each of my 9 visits to Spain, I traveled throughout the country almost exclusively by train and always had a great experience.
Final Thoughts
Although I tend to obsess over my lawn and to a lesser degree my landscaping, I’m usually not much for flower shows. Still, my trip to Córdoba during the Festival of the Patios made for an especially scenic and authentically Andalusian visit. (Córdoba is located in the Spanish region of Andalusia.) May really is the perfect time of year to wander aimlessly about the town, marvel at the historic architecture, and soak up the Spanish ambience.
While visiting Córdoba in May, take advantage of the spring weather to visit Madrid using my list of the best things to do in the Spanish capital. And if you find yourself headed to Pamplona in July, check out my guide to the Running of the Bulls!
