Wondering how to prepare for a winter visit to Iceland? I just returned from a solo trek to Reykjavik at the end of October. Here are a few observations and a packing list to help travelers get ready for an off-season trip to Iceland.
The “Off Season”
Maybe “off peak” is a better way to phrase it. After all, Iceland has a lot to offer year-round, nearly all of which is outdoors. But understand the days are much shorter here in autumn and winter, which limits your daylight activities. And winter storms can be rough— with very wet weather and unusually strong winds. (Iceland has a lot of open terrain and almost no trees, so “windy” is a bit of an understatement.)
There are far fewer whales and no puffins in the winter. Tours better suited for milder temperatures might not be offered, and some roads may be closed. But winter is the best time to see the Northern Lights and the only time to catch Reykjavik’s legendary New Year’s Eve celebration. And the volcanoes, thermal hot springs, and glaciers (though shrinking) are constants.
The island is much less crowded in the off season, too. Airfares and accommodations will be less costly, but Iceland is always an expensive place to visit. (Click here for tips on how to save money on travel.)
Transportation from Keflavik Airport to Reykjavik
Case in point— a 45-minute taxi ride from the international airport to Reykjavik runs about $120-140 one way, depending on traffic. By contrast, the FlyBus from Keflavik airport to the BSI bus terminal in Reykjavik is just $50 round trip for travelers aged 16+.
The bus fare is $65 round trip if you book the FlyBus+. FlyBus+ adds a shuttle ride between the BSI bus terminal and your lodging. The shuttle goes directly to many large hotels, or to the nearest bus stop for Airbnb’s and other smaller accommodations.
FlyBus and FlyBus+
You can purchase FlyBus tickets online or when you board the bus. (You can even buy them in-flight on Icelandair.) If purchased prior to arrival, exchange your receipt for the actual tickets at the FlyBus counter near the exit from the airport arrivals terminal.
Note you’ll receive two tickets in each direction if you book FlyBus+. One is for the ride between the airport and the BSI bus terminal. The second ticket is for the shuttle between the terminal and your lodging. Match the color of your second ticket to the color of the shuttle. Each one goes to a different part of town.
If you book the roundtrip bus fare, remember to confirm your return date and time 24 hours in advance. The email address for doing so is printed on a card you receive with your tickets.
Now that we’ve saved some money, let’s save some time…
Skip (Most of) the Bus Tours
Bus tours are a popular and admittedly tempting way to see the best of Iceland’s far-flung outdoor attractions. They spare you the hassle of navigation and parking. And they offer free WiFi, charging ports, and educational commentary by the driver. Just about every tour can be done in a standard, large tour bus or a smaller van or mini-bus.
If you read my Welcome post, though, you know I’m generally not a fan of group tours. But I’d make two exceptions for Iceland. An organized mini-bus excursion is the way to go when searching for the Northern Lights. It makes sense to have a local driver who knows how to reach the best, remote— and unmapped— viewing spots in near-total darkness. Just choose a small tour— you don’t want to be jostling with a crowd to set up your tripod.
I had a great experience on the Northern Lights tour with EastWest Iceland Tours— absolutely no regrets with that one. Click here for tips on how to photograph the aurora.
The second exception? For safety reasons, absolutely book a guided hike if you plan to visit a volcano. It’s a good idea anyway, but if you keep up with the news you know another eruption appears imminent. Geoadventures Iceland is operated by geologists who will get you as close as possible safely. (They know where not to step, and when the gases are deadly.) Read more about my hike with them here.
Avoid Full-Day Tours
Against my own advice, I also booked mini-bus tours for the South Coast and the Golden Circle— two of the most popular tourist routes. And despite very informative, attentive drivers on both occasions, I regretted the decision.
These tours, like many in Iceland, lasted 10 hours apiece. I was OK with the long days, but most of the time was spent on the bus getting from one site to the next. The good stuff in Iceland really is spread far and wide. For each tour, we made 4-5 stops that lasted anywhere from about 20 minutes to just over an hour.
Don’t get me wrong— we saw some beautiful and interesting spots, as advertised. But I was always mindful of the time and the need to hustle back to the bus. The fixed schedule kept me from wandering off to explore or waiting for a break in the weather to get a better photo. (Our South Coast tour forged ahead despite horrendous rain and wind that made photos all but impossible. Your only hope in these conditions is a smart phone, and even that’s tough.)
And of course, there was no pulling over to see other places that caught my eye. Food and bathroom breaks were predetermined, too. It was all way too restrictive for my taste. And 19 people on a mini-bus really isn’t a small group— but anything smaller quickly becomes prohibitively expensive.
Rent a Car
What I lacked was the freedom to do precisely what this blog is mostly about— taking the time to wander without an agenda or time constraints, away from the crowds, on the lookout for less common experiences that make a trip truly unique and especially memorable.
If I could hit the reset button, I’d suppress my previously disclosed reluctance to drive overseas and simply rent a car. Realistically, that limits you to September and October, before the days become ridiculously short and weather either closes some roads or makes it hazardous to drive. I’d plan on 8-10 days instead of six, still see all the top destinations (on my terms), and venture off the beaten path to see what random discoveries and people await me.
What I Got Right
The main goal of my trip was to see the Northern Lights— and I got lucky on the first try. I also gambled on a volcano hike and hit the jackpot— it, too, was a highlight of the trip.
I also nailed the packing list. My trip started in the midst of a fierce storm that delayed my flight by a day. It ended with mild, sunny weather. I was prepared for all of it and stayed comfortable and dry the entire week. Here’s what I brought with me and found indispensable.
Winter Packing List for Iceland
A truly waterproof, insulated parka: You will get cold and wet without one. I loved this coat. (Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links.If you use these links to buy something, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn from qualified purchases.)
Waterproof, insulated pants: You’ll be miserable in jeans. I wore these snow pants, and they never let me down in the cold, wind, and rain.
Waterproof, insulated boots: Are you sensing a theme?! If you can find them, these boots did their job in all terrain and conditions.
A warm, water-repellant hat: This wool hat had some great features and was up to the challenge.
Merino wool socks: These boot socks were surprisingly comfortable and warm.
Moisture-wicking, long-sleeve tees: These long-sleeve tees were ideal for layering, which is your best strategy for managing changing temps.
Quarter-zip pullovers: They’re the ideal middle layer, between your tee’s and parka. I liked the weight and fit of these pullovers and wore them daily.
A waterproof backpack: This one stayed dry in the Central American rain forest and during Iceland’s rainstorms. The secret is an elastic rain cover that you pull out from a concealed pouch when needed. My camera has never been safer!
Water repellant photographer’s gloves: It’s too cold to be without gloves, but it’s a pain to constantly pull one off to adjust your camera or phone. These photographer’s gloves designed for harsh winter conditions solved the problem with removable fingertips for the thumbs and index fingers. Best idea ever.
A tripod: It’s a necessity for Northern Lights photographers. Choose the right one for your camera and luggage.
Now that you’re better prepared for a winter trip to Iceland, enjoy your first off-season visit to the land of fire and ice!
