Visit a Volcano and Lava Flow in Iceland

In this post, learn how to see volcanoes and lava flows in Iceland! The article includes tips for safely visiting Reykjanes Peninsula— site of Iceland’s four latest eruptions from 2021-2024.

(See my separate post about how to prepare for a winter visit to Iceland. Also check out this post about photographing the northern lights.) 


My First Trip to Iceland


I’m currently in Iceland for the first time. A visit here is all about the outdoors, and the summer months are better suited for many activities. But I flew here to see the northern lights, and they’re only visible from September to March. Because it’s winter on the island, I opted not to try my luck with a rental car and Icelandic weather. (Already this season they’ve had two of the worst storms in decades.) If you read my post about Ireland, you understand why I’m already a reluctant overseas driver. 


Still, I wanted to familiarize myself with some of the island. So I’ve joined several small groups to explore the southernmost part of the country. On Saturday I went on a guided hike to see volcanoes and lava flows— and it’s a contender for highlight of the trip. 


Red Hot Expectations


Although Iceland has many active volcanoes, that activity doesn’t always equate to red hot rivers of molten lava. In fact, no red flows are currently visible— the latest one ended in August. But there is a lot of seismic and other activity that has some geologists predicting another eruption by Christmas. (Editorial note: The expected eruption occurred on December 18, 2023, and expanded in January 2024. Flowing red lava reappeared.)


Scenery Worthy of an Astronaut


In the meantime, there remains a lot of cool, volcanic phenomena to see about 45 minutes from the capital. That’s where the active Fagradalsfjall volcano system is located on Reykjanes Peninsula. I previously wrote that Antelope Canyon in Arizona had an “other-worldly, almost lunar quality”. Now I realize that’s a more apt description for Iceland’s “volcano alley”. Astronauts actually trained here to simulate conditions on the moon.    


Day Hike with a Geologist


How do I know? Giuseppe, an exuberant Italian geologist told me. He guided ten of us on a 4-hour hike through— and even across— some of the most unusual topography I’ve ever seen. Ordinarily the volcano hike is limited to just 6 people. But the most recent storm canceled the previous day’s tour, and the two groups were consolidated. Even with 10 people, the hike retained an intimate feel, and we quickly became friends. 


Giuseppe picked up our group of five at the Hallgrimskirkja in Reykjavik and drove the 45 minutes or so to a village near our destination. We made a quick stop there to use the restrooms and buy last-minute food. Soon we met the other group of five at the trailhead and started our trek. Note there are no facilities of any kind at the hiking area. You’ll be on the trail and lava flow for about four hours in all. Go prepared.


What to Expect


Iceland’s weather varies dramatically day to day and even hour to hour. Guides select hiking routes accordingly to maximize the group’s comfort to the extent possible. Guiseppe picked a trail for us that minimized exposure to the day’s very strong winds and brief, light rain. Our participants knew what to expect and wore warm, waterproof clothing and gloves. (Click here for my list of things to pack for a fall/winter visit to Iceland.)


The hike was about an hour and fifteen minutes each way. I’d rate it moderate in a few parts and easy most of the way. Only one person dropped out during the initial ascent— the hardest part. Wear hiking boots. 


Along the way we were treated to geology lessons by an actual vulcanologist with an obvious love for his field of research. Guiseppe explained how the land we traversed was formed and what was happening at that very moment deep beneath our feet.  


Volcanic Activity


And then we were at the edge of the lava flow. It was as if we’d reached another planet. 


Steam chugged from dozens of vents in what looked like a vast valley of charcoal. In some spots, the dominant black color was punctuated by brightly colored minerals spewed forth from below. 


In every direction, we saw evidence of massive, earthly disruption. Uplifted “plates” a foot thick, and a stretch of blocks belched from below like a makeshift wall. Ribbons and tubes of cooled lava, with cracks that still warmed our hands and fogged our camera lenses. And near the far edge, the ugly smell of sulphur where gases spilled free from the earth. 


Precautions


Before we got too close, Guiseppe was careful to point out where we could— and could not— step. He also pointed out the danger of the gases themselves, although we were never at risk from inhaling them for too long. Still, it’s worth noting that this is not an area you ought to explore up close on your own— unless you’re an experienced vulcanologist. Guiseppe had plenty of stories to tell about foolhardy explorers who learned the hard way. 


Bad Student


I admit it. I was so intrigued by my surroundings— and focused on my photographs— that I missed some of what Guiseppe taught us. Still, I walked away with a far greater understanding of volcanoes and Iceland’s volcano system. Not to mention a much healthier respect for the power and reach of a volcanic eruption. 


It was also fascinating to learn how scientists monitor and predict volcanic activity, in part to keep local residents safe. They even use satellites and GPS to monitor changes in the lava flow, using small markers posted along our hike. 


Photographer Heaven


Giuseppe allowed us to explore our strange surroundings for about 75 minutes before we ate lunch on the hillside. We all had a ball and along the way snapped photos of each other. At the end of the hike, we traded emails in order to exchange pics afterwards. Having a small group made it much easier to connect quickly and get the conversations flowing. (Special thanks to Tyler, Lisa, and Mees!)


The few apprehensions I had about the difficulty and duration of the hike quickly evaporated. I tried something completely new, had fun the entire time, learned a lot, and walked away with some cool photos. That’s my definition of a great travel experience. 


How to Book


I booked the tour as a “local activity” through Airbnb. But the same one is available on TripAdvisor under the name of Geoadventures Iceland, or at the company’s website.   


Iceland owes its very existence to— and remains at the mercy of— volcanoes. A guided hike to see them is a great way to spend the day here.    

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